Inside Momofuku’s Secret Test Lab, A Very Magical Kitchen

I’ve been wanting to break into (or be invited, whichever) Momofuku’s secret Test Lab since cookbook co-author and all-around ace food writer Peter Meehan revealed its existence six months ago. Alas, I’ve been beaten by Jimmy Fallon.

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A test lab for a restaurant might sound crazy, but a lot of restaurants, from McDonald’s to the Fat Duck in London—basically anywhere serving science as much as food—utilize legit test labs to experiment and develop new recipes. In the Momofuku lab, David Chang’s working on ideas and experiments like his own soy sauce, vegetable stock that’s as good as one made from meat and other deeply pungent weirdness that Jimmy Fallon’s cameraman can’t even identify.

The space seems cramped and sparse, but I’ve seen some cooking magic come out of spaces just as utilitarian. More on that soon. [Jimmy Fallon]