Not so long ago, you might have walked out of a restaurant that served you ludicrous-sounding creations, like cream of mushroom foam or spheres of olive oil that explode in your mouth like salmon roe. Not anymore.
When plebes like you and me try to steam food, it’s an inexact and often sloppy exercise. Wylie Dufresne of wd~50? He uses the Winston CVap, which is a hulking box that uses steam and evaporation for precision cooking.
A couple of weeks ago, I went to visit chef Wylie Dufresne at his restaurant wd~50, and he showed me his toys and the food that he makes with said toys.
