I spill a dribble of liquid nitrogen onto the bar as I try to pour it from a steel vat into a coffee thermos for Dave Arnold, in a scene that vaguely reminds me of this image of Jesus turning water into wine, except that the splash turns into smoke and tiny beads, which skitter across the bar like insects.
The first thing I should tell you about the Momofuku Kitchen Lab is that I can’t tell you very much about it.
I’ve been wanting to break into (or be invited, whichever) Momofuku’s secret Test Lab since cookbook co-author and all-around ace food writer Peter Meehan revealed its existence six months ago. Alas, I’ve been beaten by Jimmy Fallon.
